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The detailed description on the product page you can find a "compatible" section (
click here), that summarizes motorcycles that have already been supplied with our regulator rectifier.
We want to emphasize that if your cycle isn’t on the list, that doesn’t mean that our regulator rectifier is not good for it. That means they haven’t been bought for this type yet. If you are not sure what regulator rectifier you need, we can help you by clicking this link.
The principle of regulation is the same for different motorcycles, only the performance of the generator and the design of the plug-in may differ. This regulator rectifier is designed for higher performance motorcycles, but can of course also be used for lower performance, older motorcycle types. The end of the wires are free (not equipped with a plug-in), thus suitable for any brand and type. Plug-in kit can also be ordered in our webshop, if you insist.
The biggest advantage of regulator rectifiers using MOSFET transistors over classical thyristor regulator rectifiers is that little heat is generated during the regulation. This advantage is especially important for motorcycles with powerful generators.
The need for an IC-controlled regulator rectifier arises in case of high-power (400-500 W) generators. Our "normal" MOSFET regulator rectifier is perfectly suitable for lower performance generators.
The maximum allowable internal temperature of the rectifier’s semiconductors is 150 °C. The temperature step can be 15-20 °C in metal heatsink, so the temperature of the ribs can be up to 100 °C. The amount of heat released increases exponentially with the temperature difference (i.e.: a hotter the rib surface dissipates the heat better). The perception of the warmth of the rib surface is subjective with barehand. A 50 °C metal surface can not be touched permanently. According to these, the rib surface of the regulator rectifier will never be “just lukewarm”.
Check the connectors on the battery for cleanliness and tightness. Oxidized or loose connectors can cause improper (low) voltage. A molten connector/plug-in can also cause a voltage drop. Inspect the area around the main fuse for oxidation or wear. This is usually located near the starter relay.
The regulator rectifier can also be connected in this case. The ends of the wires of the same polarity can be jointly (red with red, green with green) connected to the motorcycle.
The original regulator rectifier may be connected to the motorcycle network with 6 or 8 wires. In this case, one wire (from the motorcycle side) is ignition-switched positive wire (usually a thinner brown or black wire), which will not be conntected to the regulator rectifier. The meaning of this ignition-switched positive wire is that the original regulator rectifier takes the voltage sample through this ignition-switched positive wire, which it needs for the regulation. Our regulator rectifier takes this sample from the charging wire, so this rectifier doesn’t need the ignition-switched positive wire. Anyway the most regulators work this way. Therefore, if you use a rectifier from us, the ignition-switched positive wire will not be connected, insulate it.
If the ignition-switched positive wire cannot be detected at first sight, you can use a multimeter to make sure, which is that:
- In case of ignition-switched positive wire if the ignition is on the motorcycle then the battery voltage will be displayed. If the ignition is off, the battery voltage will disappear.
- In case of positive wire we will always measure the battery voltage (regardless of whether the ignition is on or off).
The default battery voltage is around 12V. In the case of a discharged battery, less can be measured.
As an example, there is such a ignition-switched positive wire for Yamaha XVS 650 or Yamaha XVS Dragstar 1100, but the same is true for Honda, for example, the XRV 750 Africa Twin. Therefore the regulator rectifier is also compatible with these.
The original regulator rectifier may be connected to the motorcycle network with 4 wires. In this case, the metal housing (the heatsink) of the rectifier provides the negative (the ground). In this case, after connecting the new regulator rectifier, fix the missing wire (negative - green or black colored wire) from the regulator rectifier to the metallic body (under no circumstances in a place that is painted because it can insulate!) of the motorcycle with a cable end. You can request a cable end separately when ordering the regulator rectifier.
The regulator rectifiers we sell are universally usable. The type of connectors (plug-in) may differ depending on the brand and type. To ensure that there is no problem with the compatibility of the connector (plug-on) after ordering, we do not install a connector on it. If it is necessary to replace the connector/plug-on (e.g. burnt or damaged), various sets of connectors (plug-in) are available in our webshop. In this case, we recommend replacing the connectors (male and female connectors) on both the rectifier and the motorcycle side.
In a nutshell: Our MOSFET regulator rectifier has an acceptable heating temperature at 25-30A ampere, in case of demand above 30A we recommend the developed regulator with IC controlled technology, which can be loaded with higher current.
Explained in detailed : The regulator rectifier also handles the most powerful generators, heating up a little better (rib temperature of the heatsink 70-90 ° C). It depends on the output, wind speed and ambient temperature. A linearly warmer rib surface dissipates exponentially more heat, so it can operate reliably. At a higher-performance generator with high-current production the wires (especially when bundled together so they heat each other) and the connectors/plug-ins are the weak points (which is why we usually recommend soldering instead of using connectors) which are easier to melt.
In case of scooters the question is the presence of a three-phase generator. If the generator is three-phase, our regulator rectifier is good for it. Usually, large scooters tend to look for our product, which have the three-phase generator. For example, our regulator rectifier is often used for Suzuki AN 400 Burgman.
To measure the regulator rectifier with multimeter, we recommend watching the video below from 9 minutes to 36 seconds. To access the video
click here We've created the table below for this video.
1. In the case of a thyristor technology regulator rectifier (with a „normal” diode), the following voltage values shall be measured:
A táblázat megtekintéséhez böngészőben kattints ide vagy töltsd le PDF-ként kattints ide
2. A mi feszültségszabályzóink
esetében (MOSFET technológia, illetve az pozitív oldalt beépített 3 db Schottky dióda miatt, míg a negatív oldalt hagyomány diódák vannak beépítve):
A táblázat megtekintéséhez böngészőben kattints ide vagy töltsd le PDF-ként kattints ide
Azért csak az egyik oldalt van Schottky dióda beépítve, mert a MOSFET “body” diódája is erős teljesítményű dióda, így ott nem került Schottky dióda beépítésre.
Jó tudni! Ha a méréskor feszültségszabályzót még meleg (a motorkerékpárról “frissen” van leszedve) vagy 40 fokos hőségben mérjük, akkor a mérési eredmények a fentebbi táblázattól lefele eltérhetnek. Ez nem jelent rosszat, csak egy “természetes” eltérés a melegből adódóan (másképp fogalmazva a fentebbi adatokat “szobahőmérsékletű” feszültségszabályzó esetében mérhetjük).
Jó tudni! A fentebbi mérések elvégzésével, ha sípol a multiméter, az “OL” / “1” érték helyett más értéket mérünk vagy a 3 fázis között nagyon nagy eltérés van, akkor biztosan rossz a feszültségszabályzó. Amennyiben a teszten “átmegy” a feszültségszabályzó, attól még lehet, hogy a feszültségszabályzóval van a gond, de ezzel az egyik lehetséges hibaforrást (ha tönkrement a dióda) kiszűrhetjük.
